DAY 4 in SEOUL – SHOPPING AT DONGDAEMUN, VISITING THE 63 BUILDING

Day 4 is where we will set aside time to look for those shopping buys which we had put aside the previous days so that we can check that the buys are good or that we have made a decision to buy to prevent impulsive shopping.


(Above) Fashion apparel at Dongdaemun

Also, it allows us to revisit those places that we may have missed or rushed through in the first few days here. So we will go back to Dongdaemun area in the 1st half of the day and then go to Insadong area near our serviced apartment which will make getting back easier, especially after a full day of walking and shopping.




(Above) Different levels of shopping experience, from malls to markets.

After breakfast at our serviced apartment, we will walk to Anguk Station and take a train to the next stop at Jongnosam(3)ga Station which will allow us to make a transfer from Line 3 to Line 1. Taking the Line 1 train from Jongnosam(3)ga Station, we will alight at the the 2nd stop at Dongdaemun Station. At Dongdaemun station, we will exit from exit 3 of Line 4 of the station and use the overhead pass to get to the shopping malls like Doosan Tower and Migliore.

We will probably start with Doosan Tower which by itself is a feat to accomplish in shopping with 2000 stores in its nine stories. We heard that popular Korean pop stars often perform on the outdoor stage in front of the building so one can keep a lookout for them.

For lunch, we can either go to one of the many restaurants and eateries within Doosan Tower or proceed out of the mall to some recommended eateries in the area. We will shop till about 3 to 4pm in the afternoon before heading off to the 63 Building for some more shopping and getting a bird eye’s view of Seoul central.



Formerly called the Daehan Life Insurance (DLI) 63 Building(above), it is now know better by the local people as the 63 Building. While the building officially has 63 stories, only 60 are above ground. The other 3 are underground. Still, it remains the tallest building in Northeast Asia. Besides being a tourist and architectural attraction, the building contains many different attractions and amusement. The building resembles a small city, containing a beauty salon, post office, and ATM machines. Various stores sell everything from books to clothes to flowers to stationary.

To get to 63 Building, we will take a line 4 train from Dongdaemun station and transfer at the next stop which is Jongnosam(3)ga Station. At this station, we will transfer to Line 5 which will see us alighting 8 stops away at Yeouido Station. This station is located on an island on the southern side of the han River in Seoul. at side of the island has been paved over for parking, although a small patch has been saved for a small nature preserve.

Yeouido forms Seoul's (and therefore Korea's) financial and economic center, housing the Korea Stock Exchange and the headquarters of numerous securities dealers, banks, and other financial institutions. The National Assembly building sits on the western side, where Korea's polititians boycott meetings called by the opposing party and engage in occasional fist fights once they actually do get together. The eastern side of the island is dominated by the the 63 Building which we are visiting. We will emerge from exit 5 of the station and take a 10 minutes walk / or the free shuttle bus to 63 Building.

At 63 Building, we will pay about 5000W each to take the elevator to the 60th storey or 63rd Floor Observation deck ( depends on whether you see the 3 stories that are underground as the starting point). From the Observation Platform at 264m above the sea level, and 249m above the ground level there is a feeling as if one is floating above the clouds, we will be rewarded with a panoramic view of Seoul and the surrounding area. On a clear day or night, one can see up to 50 km. (However, we are told that clouds or pollution may limit our visibility to a lot less on most days.)
There are floor to ceiling windows to lean your camera up against for photographs. Take some. Try walking out onto the glass floor if you are brave enough. There is also a wax museum, an art museum(Hello Kitty fans may want to visit the art exhibit with Hello Kitty theme there), an IMAX theatre for visitors but visiting all these will incur admission fees of up to 38000W per adult so it is a personal choice whether that money can be better spend on food or shopping. Admission starts at 10am and last admission is at 9.30pm for those who want to take the night view of Seoul.

After coming down, we will do some shopping at the many shop areas at the 63 Building, and if we can find time to also visit Yeouido Plaza, a huge paved area in the center of the island which could theoretically be used for a landing strip for airplanes, has been ripped up and turned into a park with grass and trees- definitely something Seoul has needed for a long time! The Han River side contains a bike path (continuing along the southern bank of the Han River), several riverside parks, and a large outdoor stage with weekly concerts during the summer. Many people go to the park area behind the National Assembly building where they operate radio controlled airplanes, helicopters, and cars. This is a good place to get some nice photo opportunities of the Han river and the Seoul skyline.


(Above) Samgak Kimbap. You can see the numbers 1,2,3 indicating how to open the packet.

Along the way, we will probably want to try a popular Korean snack that we often see on Korean drama series which is the samgak kimbap, (Korean sushi). There is a skill involved in removing the plastic wrapper and keeping the seaweed intact. However, we managed to get some tips on how to open the snack intact. On the wrapper, there are the three numbers. 1 2 3. Follow the numbers when removing the plastic wrap. Pull down the tab (1), until it wraps around and you're left with 2 and 3, the sides. Gently, tugging at the plastic only, remove one side, then the second side and then wrap the seaweed back into place.

For an early dinner, I will bring Gayle back to 63 Building to try out ‘sky-dining’ at the 63 Building’s '63 Buffet Pavilion' offers delicacies from all over the world. Its huge facility and top-quality food has named the restaurant as the best buffet-style restaurant in Korea, styled after a European garden. The cooking staff have won various international cooking competitions, and much of the food is prepared in an open-kitchen with a wide spread of Korean food, Chinese food, Japanese food, vegetables, salads, Galbi, roast beef, drinks etc to cater to all tastes. Dinner is at 57000W per person so it’s a nice splurge to have a romantic dinner with Gayle on top of Seoul and have a nice view during dinner. For more details on the 63 Buffet Pavilion, you can visit http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/FO/FO_EN_6_4_4.jsp?cid=553150.

After dinner, we will take the subway back to our serviced apartment at Anguk station. We will transfer from Line 5 to Line 3 at Jongnosam(3)ga Station which will allow us to reach Anguk Station. We will unload our shopping at our apartment. If we are still energetic, we will probably do some more night shopping down the street at Insadong Gil. If not, we will have an early night and do some laundry since we have a washing machine in our apartment.

DAY 1 - Arrive In Seoul and Check In(Part 2)

(Above)Insadong Street crowded with locals and tourists

By the time we checked in and rested a while, it should be around 3 to 4pm in the afternoon. We will probably take a walk around Insadong-gil(gil is the Korean word for street) which is the main street in the Insadong area. Insadong is a popular tourist destination in Seoul. Composed mainly of one long street, it is known for its many art galleries, restaurants, and shops that sell traditional Korean items and art. There is also plenty of cheap street food and occasional public performances of dancing.


Above) Information centre at Insadong
We will head to the Insadong Tourist Information Centre to ask them more about the place. There are two Tourist Information Centers(TIC) that are located at the two ends of the main street of Insadong that have experienced staff fluent in English, Mandarin and Japanese; There are maps and useful brochures and booklets which we will take the relevant ones. Public bathrooms are located next to TICs as well so in case one is need of a washroom. There are also 3 computer terminals at the Insadong Tourist Information Centre with free internet access if you are thinking of sending our emails. The TICs are opened from 10am to 10pm daily.

Here, in the myriad fine craft stores that line both sides of the street, we can find anything from simple hanbok (traditional Korean clothing), to beautiful Goryeo era vases. The roads leading to Insadong are filled with restaurants where we will be able to get Japanese udon noodles, Chinese dumplings, and European cakes up until the entrance of Insa-dong. Once inside the main Insadong area. We'll find distinctly Korean foods in temporary stalls on the streets such as tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), eomuk (skewered fish sausage), hotteok, and various tempuras. These street foods are tasty and cheap, so it's definitely worth a try for us.


(Above) Jilsuru rice cake cafe at Insadong

We will also find rare korean foods, such as rice cakes, yeot (traditional candy), and rice cookies. There are also many kinds of traditional drinks, such as cinnamon tea, Chinese quince tea, jujube tea, shikhye (fermented rice punch), and sujeonggwa (cinnamon flavored dried persimmon punch), so we will try a cup to compliment the food.
The winding side streets are also home to a variety of traditional restaurants. Most restaurants in Insadong are on alleys near Sudo Pharmacy. (Please refer to the map of Insadong). Traditional restaurants in Insadong serve Korean dishes cooked without synthetic seasonings in remodeled traditional Korean houses. Sanchon serves good temple food along with a traditional performance. The restaurant Jirisan is famous for delicious dishes that taste of Korean home cooking. Sadongmyeonok is renowned for manduguk, dumpling soup; Insadong Hangari Sujebi is recognized for sujebi, clear soup with wheat flakes; and Gaetmaeul Milbatjip is celebrated for kalguksu, noodle soup. Yetchatjip, Gwicheon, and Jeontong Dawon located inside of Gyeongin Art Gallery are popular traditional teahouses. A fun experience in Insadong is to try hotteok, Chinese stuffed pancake, or gultarae from a street vendor.

Just as a nugget of information, over forty percent of the nation’s antique stores are in Insadong. It sells more valuable antiques compared to other art streets in Korea. The prices range from 10,000 won to some hundred million won. If it is a Sunday, the Insadong area is off-limits to traffic and becomes a huge pedestrian mall that is converted into a flea market. Many artists also converge there to do street paintings. Those who are interested in traditional tea or coffee shops will have a field day there too. We plan to explore the popular traditional alleys of Insa-dong, to look for the traditional rice cake café - Jilsiru and order some tasty Korean rice cakes and have a drink. Most rice cakes cost 1,500 won and the persimmon shake is 7,000 won. Next to Jilsiru is ‘Sanchon Saramdeul,’ a traditional Korean cookie shop operated by Sanchon, an Insa-dong restaurant well known for its vegetarian “Buddhist temple” food. Here, you can buy traditional Korean cookies not easily found elsewhere, at relatively inexpensive prices. While some cookie bags cost 10,000 won, most are between 4,000 and 5,000 won. The most popular is the yugwa, which costs 4,000 won a bag.

Recently, a new attraction has been drawing visitors to Insadong. Sunday has been named as a car-free day street with cars and various events are held instead. A flea market is held this day where antiques, accessories, artworks and books are sold and bought. Traditional antiques from different parts of Korea as well as international antiques brought by foreign tourists are displayed enabling visitors to view many traditional items at a glance. It is highly recommended to visit Insadong this day since you can also view street paintings. Particularly noteworthy is Tongmungwan which is reputed to be the oldest bookstore in Seoul, and Kyung-in Art Gallery, the oldest tea house. There are daily calligraphy demonstrations and cultural performances. We may also pop by one of Insadong's more recent attractions, the Asia Eros Museum, which was opened in 2004, and is purportedly South Korea's first museum devoted to sex.

We will then head to Anguk subway station(Line 3) which is within our vicinity. We may buy a T-Money pre-paid transportation card there. This card can be purchased at all subway stations and certain kiosks. The card itself costs 2,500 KRW and can be used to pay for subway (T-Money users enjoy a discount on all subway rides, i.e. while a normal ride starts at 1,000 KRW, with T-Money it only costs 900 KRW), bus and taxi and it can be used at certain convenience stores, museums, parking lots, vending machines. Note that there is no way to ask for a refund for unused credits so don’t top up too much. From Anguk station, we will take a train to the next stop at Jongnosam(3)ga Station which will allow us to make a transfer from Line 3 to Line 1. Taking the Line 1 train from Jongnosam(3)ga Station, we will alight at the 2nd stop at Dongdaemun Station to visit the famous Dongdaemun night market via the subway exit 8.


(Above)Layout of Dongdaemun Market

Dongdaemun Market, Seoul is located in Dongdaemun-gu of Seou and is considered to be the shopping kingdom of Seoul. The market of Dongdaemun is home to 50,000 wholesalers, 30,000 stores and 20 shopping malls. Dongdaemun Market, Seoul is the destination where retailers from different parts of the nation flock to and do some great business. Most shops and stores have their own a manufacturing factory or subcontract, which enables them to sell the items at price 30 to 70 percent cheaper than those of the department stores in major cities. Large shopping malls including Doosan Tower, Migliore, and Freya Town located within the area also offer goods at half price. Thus, while the products are of a acceptable to good quality, they are still priced very low. Clothing items for men and women, shoes and trendy fashion accessories are available at prices that are 20-30% lower than any other market in Seoul.

The Dongdaemun Market area is divided by the main street into two major sections. Section One is on the side where Doosan Tower is located, and Section Two is the side of Dongdaemun Stadium. Tall and huge shopping mall buildings in Section One basically sell wholesale and retail goods, but deal mostly with general customers and tourists at retail prices. Since a lot of foreign tourists visit the area, there are many money exchanges and information desks in the area staffed with English speaking guides. The shopping malls open from 10 a.m. to 5 a.m. of the next day, targeting at the younger customers. Major shopping malls in the area are Doosan Tower, Migliore, Freya Town, and Hello apM.

The shopping malls in the area usually operate between 8 p.m. and 8 a.m. or opens 5 p.m. the next day for the convenience of wholesalers rather than retail customers. Wholesale market opens from 8 p.m. to 9 a.m. and the retail market opens from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., which makes this market works 24 hours. Since most shops deal with the wholesalers, there may not be a dressing room to try out the clothes. In many shops in the area refunds and exchanges are not guaranteed. This means that customers have to make sure that they check the quality and size thoughtfully before purchasing.

In addition to the marketplace, we will try to locate some shopping recommendations such as Jeil Pyeonghwa and Heungin Stardom which are targeted at customers in their 30s and 40s who favor goods with simple and elegant design. Younger customers – teenagers and other youths in their 20s normally opt for Designer's Club, Migliore, Nuzzon, and Gwanghee Fashion Mall. We will also check out "Team 204" at Dongdaemun Market to find out latest fashion trends, because it is the place where most up-to-date fashion items from abroad is first introduced in the nation. There is only one-week time span between the design trends of "Team 204" shops and the latest from those of Milan, Paris, or New York. We understand that traders and shop owners in this area fly to Milan, Tokyo, Paris, or New York to get the taste of latest design and to collect samples. Designer Club, Team 204, Heyang Elicium, Migliore, Doosan Tower are frequented by young ladies seeking fashionable dresses. Such stores as Uno Core, Art Plaza, and Freya Town aim for women over 25 years old. Men's clothing can found at such shops as Heyang Elicium, Uno Core, Designer Club, Freya Town, Doosan Tower, and Migliore whereas children's clothes are available at Heungin Market, Doosan Tower, Freya Town, and Migliore. Migliore, which opened its doors in 1998, has the slogan "from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet," and you can find everything in one place. Under the slogan "shopping is a war," Doota is a rival to Migliore, and boasts diverse and unique fashion items. All in all, it should be a shopping adventure worth trying out. Oh yes, one useful word to use during shopping is "pi sai yo" which means expensive. We read that you've got to say it with gusto! like "Pi Sai YOOOOO"

Along the way, we will also be looking out for the night market food area to have our dinner the Korean way by looking for a good streetside food stall. These streetside food stall aren’t small side food kiosks but are rather miniature restaurants that offer relatively extensive menus and we just want to get the Korean experience of seating inside a tent to enjoy our food like any Korean – in Korea, do as the Koreans do.

After that we will continue shopping as far as our legs can carry us. It’s simply not possible to conquer Dongdaemun with it’s 30 000 speciality shops and 26 shopping malls. We will probably shop till 11 before heading back to catch the last train to Anguk station and walk back to our service apartment.